34 Mayfair: I think I Am In Love

Returning to London Restaurant Reviews

It’s been more than a minute since I’ve done a review of a London restaurant. I've questioned whether I still know how to. But one thing was certain: once I made the booking, I knew I was going to.

What I didn’t expect was that 34 Mayfair would remind me, in one sitting, why I fell in love with London dining in the first place.

Brunch... (Though Not Everyone Agrees)

The outing was booked as brunch, if time matters, which some insist it does. Ours was set for two in the afternoon. A few claimed that it disqualified the meal entirely. The argument I told them,

is with 34 Mayfair, not me.

I chose 2 pm for the same reason you choose the second late-running Piccadilly tube. Fewer crowds and more room to breathe.

But whatever we were calling this, 2 pm, was more of a much-needed catch-up: a little gossip, a little life admin and setting a certain middle of life to rights.

For reference, however, my adventures in London's brunching scene have previously taken me to Coya and NoMad, In their own way, unforgettable.

The Menu Changed My Mind

I’ve chased more than a few lunches around London, like the lively flavours at Ivy Asia St Pauls. Though I’d selected 34 Mayfair because it had been sitting on my list long enough to gather dust in the back of my mind. Sitting down, it took seconds for the place to remind me why it was there.

A sweep of the menus had me abandoning the brunch idea entirely, disengaging from the Spicy Buttermilk Fried Chicken with Caramelised Croffle and the Crispy Taco with Salmon Tartare and Tiger’s Milk Dressing.

The grilled sea bass from the mains section had enough pull to take me away from anything with the word 'brunch' attached to it. When the dish arrived, whole yet neatly deboned, its skin crisp and unashamedly golden. It ate as a dish requiring no further embellishment.

Though we had generous helpings of buttery spinach for accompaniment. A little of me wished I'd chosen the broccoli but other than that, no one reached for the salt or pepper. Not once.

Somewhere between debating vegetables and debating life, we'd realised we'd become the kids. And we caricature them.

Mom, you didn't call to say you've arrived safely?

Signing off that segment with a few expressions only West Indians would know.

Though I personally skipped on the sweets, dessert's arrival signalled a new stanza. Over a velvety latte and warm pear Tarte (warming I'm told) with ginger stem ice cream we contemplated how many baubles were involved in the display.

I sipped on my refreshing Lychee Blossom mocktail and my girlfriend her Mekong Mule. Ultimately, we decided, countless.

A Layout With a Natural Flow

But what surprised me most wasn’t the food. It was the venue and just how fluid the layout of 34 Mayfair feels. Many restaurants arrange their tables like puzzle pieces forced into place, corners jammed together until conversation becomes a communal act.

34 seats beautifully.

The layout has a natural flow.

And the atmosphere really does shine here. It’s lively but nothing we'd refer to as loud, elegant but nothing stiff, buzzy but still relaxed. You notice immediately, even if you don’t name it: the room flows. The atmosphere follows.

Seasonal Sparkle All The Way

At this time of year, the Christmas sparkles are alight and nowhere more so than at 34 Mayfair. This place is serving up festive eye candy impossible to ignore. Sparkle and baubles cover every ceiling and wall surface. The details here dictates the restaurant cares as much about mood as it does about the menu.

Speaking of Mayfair where most of Caprice Holdings' Restaurants are located, bring to mind one of my more playful and creative short pieces: Call Me Blair/Wrongdoing. A scene set at SexyFish.

Now do you remember I started this review for 34 Mayfair, questioning my ability? Well, the hesitation didn’t last. By the time I left the restaurant, muscle memory returned. And even before I'd closed the restaurant's door on leaving, I also knew I’d return. Spicy Buttermilk Chicken calls.

But we both agreed that while some restaurants stay with you because the food is good; this one stays because everything works together.

My 34 Mayfair Review

People often talk about 34 for its steak, its grill, its terrace when the temperature cooperates. And those are worthy mentions.

On this visit, the restaurant didn’t just tick a box on my list. It edged its way firmly into my London favourites. This restaurant understands the value of atmosphere, of good food, of facilitating memories to last long after the plates have cleared.

A great spot for refreshing light lunches, beautiful grills, night-time dining. And as their reputation proudly suggests, excellent steaks. Come the warmer months? Their summer terrace turns into a different Mayfair moment entirely. Until then, I have plans to menu-hop my way around this restaurant.

With the restaurant fully geared up for this festive season, the hardest decision you'll face is counting how many baubles have contributed to this stunning masterpiece. Come dine under the baubles.

34 Mayfair, this could be love...

If you want food that satisfies, service that's flawless and a room that sparkles even without the baubles, 34 Mayfair delivers.

Why go: date nights, first dates, lunch dates and brunch dates, impressing your guests. And at this time of year, for a very festive setting

Cuisine: Modern Grill

Address: 34 Grosvenor Square, South Audley Street, W1K 2HD